Originally published by InfUSion Magazine
Locs have taken on many forms for many people, but they have a long and deep-rooted history that very few people are aware of. Many people have loc’d their hair permanently, while others may utilize locs for protective and temporary styles. No matter which way you use them, see them or wear them, it is important to understand and know where they started so that we know where they are going.
History of Locs
Locs, also known as dreadlocks or dreads, have been pinpointed in many different countries and cultures. The most notable being Africa and more specifically, Egypt. Mummies that were uncovered in Egypt, were identified having intact locs.
There is also evidence of locs in Ethiopia which is most identifiable with Rastafarianism. Ethiopian emperor Ras Tafari started the idea of natural locs as a symbol of respect for their god. People then began to grow their locs long because they refused to cut them until Ras Tafari returned from exile. Rastafarianism migrated to Jamaica, which most people identify locs and the Rastafari lifestyle with. People who follow Rastafarianism in Jamaica did not see this as a choice of style but saw it more as a way of life. Locs, then and now, are known to shake up society. They can be seen as messy or undesirable, but many people have persisted past this stereotype to represent unity, spirituality and culture.
While most people are aware of the cultural significance that locs had in African countries, the same is not true for countries like India or even Germany. The locs that people from these countries may have worn possibly look a little different because of hair texture and were used for different reasons than an African culture, but nonetheless, they were identified as “twisted locks of hair.”
Present Day Locs
Today, locs take on different forms while still keeping the deep rooted history in mind. There are many ways for people to start what is referred to as a “Loc Journey.” A lot of people start their journey with coils. Coils are simply using a comb or a finger to twist a section of hair. Other people start their hair with two-strand twists. This method is common for those who have softer or looser hair textures. Two-strand twists are exactly what they sound like – two strands of hair twisting around each other.
There are also several people that start their locs using a technique called interlocking – which is a little more complicated. To provide a short description, it is when someone takes a section of hair and manually locks the hair together using a tool. (see Loc Dictionary for full description). This is one of the only methods in which your hair looks like fully locked hair immediately after completing the technique.
More and more people are turning towards free-from locs, also known as free-forms. Celebrities like Jay-Z and J. Cole have taken this hairstyle on to deepen their identity to Black culture. Free-forms require little work to start and maintain them. Typically, people with free-forms do not get retwists and let their hair grow and mat in whichever way it desires.
There are also protective and less permanent versions of locs that people take advantage of. People may choose to wear soft or faux locs (see the Loc Dictionary for descriptions) to get the desired look of having locs without going through the process of a loc journey. There are more individuals taking advantage of loc extensions as well (see Loc Dictionary for description). These are great options for people who wish to still be a little more versatile with their loose hairstyles.
Benefits of Locs
There are many reasons why a person may consider loc-ing their hair and the benefits are plentiful. Protective styles can alleviate the daily concern of how to best style hair and for a lot of people, locs do the same thing. If taken care of properly, locs require very little daily maintenance.
There is also a benefit to a loc journey. Many people may enjoy seeing their hair change and lock over time. They may even begin to appreciate their natural hair texture even more than they did prior to beginning their journey, which can bring about a spiritual connection to the locs.
University of Georgia graduate student, Kassidy Sharpe, says “Overall, I have never loved my unique hair texture more than when I’ve had locs. As they mature they change and I love each new stage more than the last, regardless of length.”
Loc Dictionary
Now that locs have become more prevalent in society, there are many terms people may use to reference them. Some of these terms may refer to the more permanent style while others refer to the protective styles that people may wear.
Locs: mostly associated with women who wear locs. There are several women that do not necessarily like other terms that may be used and have taken on a more feminized meaning. The term “locs” refers to the matting that occurs when curly or kinky hair goes without being brushed. The hair becomes locked.
Dreadlocs: can be most identified with all genders and is what most people know locs to be referenced as. People who may not be familiar with other terms due to differences in culture or race may use this term. The term mostly took on the “dread” in front of the “loc” due to eurocentric beauty standards and the distaste or dread Europeans had for the hairstyle.
Dreads: simply a shortened version of “dreadlocs.” Dreads is typically used to refer to the locs that men have, thus the term takes on a more masculine connotation.
Soft Locs: “soft locs” refers to the temporary and protective style mostly worn by women. The idea is to give the illusion of locs without a person having actually loc their own hair. This style best replicates the actual style and texture of locs, hence the addition of soft. Usually, a person will braid their real hair, add a loc extension, then wrap that in braiding hair.
Faux Locs: This style is very similar to soft locs, but they are typically bigger in size. This also requires more hair to be added. Most times, a person braids their hair into individual braids or “plaits,” and then wraps braiding hair around the braid.
Loc Extensions: This hairstyle is usually for those who want to have permanent locs without the loc journey. The style involves sectioning someone’s hair, locking (usually interlocking) the root of the section and adding a pre-made loc to the natural sections of hair. There is slight controversy surrounding loc extensions because those who go through a loc journey may feel like those who wear loc extensions skipped the hard part of starting locs.
Freeforms: Free-forms are exactly how they sound. A person who decides to wear this hairstyle typically lets their hair grow how it sees fit. There is little to no maintenance involved and can take on many different forms and shapes.
Loc’d Natural: A person who wears locs is often referred to as a Loc’d Natural. Someone who does not have chemically processed hair but does not have locs is considered a loose natural.
Interlocking: Interlocking can be a complicated and/or tedious process. Most people use a tool like a crochet needle. Loctitions do them differently across the board but in simple terms, you take a section of hair, rub the ends together and begin manipulating the sections of hair in between one another.
Retwist/Maintenance: You may hear people using these terms interchangeably. A retwist is how someone maintains their hair. A retwist is done several ways depending on the person and what their locs look like. Simply put, when a person's locs grows to a certain point (4-6 weeks; sometimes more depending on the person), their root is no longer loc’d. They use which technique they see fit and “re-loc” their hair at the root.
Loctition: A beautician that services locs.